| Makalu Expedition |
Height: 27,765 feet (8,463 meters)
Location: Makalu - Barun, Nepal / Tibet, Asia
Lat/Lon: 27.8899oN, 87.0884oE
When To Climb: April and May are pre monsoon season. Late September and October are post monsoon season.
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| Overview |
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Makalu, the world's fifth highest peak in the world rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The subsidary peak rising just north of the main summit connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.) It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.
The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect - Kumba karna, which means The Giant.
Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been no known winter ascents of this peak.
Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954. First and Notable Ascents/Routes.
Currently Completed Routes
North West Ridge / North Col. South East Ridge South Face South West Face West Pillar Route West Ridge West Face**
** The West Face has proved to be the most difficult. After 7 failed attempts on this route, it was finally completed on May 21, 1997 by a Russian team.
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| Itinerary A: |
| Day 01 |
Arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel |
| Day 02-03 |
Briefing in Tourism Ministry & prepare for expedition |
| Day 04 |
Fly Biratnagar & drive to Hile |
| Day 05 |
Hill - Hillepani |
| Day 06 |
Hillepani - Tumlingtar |
| Day 07 |
Tumlingtar - Kuwapani |
| Day 08 |
Kuwapani - Chichila |
| Day 09 |
Chichila - Num |
| Day 10 |
Num - Seduwa |
| Day 11 |
Seduwa - Tashigaun |
| Day 12 |
Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda) |
| Day 13 |
Khongmadanda - Mumfuk |
| Day 14 |
Mumfuk - Yangle Kharak |
| Day 15 |
Yangle Khark - Merak |
| Day 16 |
Merak - Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize |
| Day 17 |
Sersung - Makalu BC |
| Day 18-42 |
Climbing Period for Makalu 1 (8463m) |
| Day 43 |
Makalu BC - Mumbuck |
| Day 44 |
Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda) |
| Day 45 |
Khongma La - Seduwa |
| Day 46 |
Seduwa - Chichila |
| Day 47 |
Chichila - Tumlingtar |
| Day 48 |
Tumlingtar - Kathmandu |
| Day 49 |
Kathmandu |
| Day 50 |
Final Departure |
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| Itinerary B: |
| Day 01 |
Arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel |
| Day 02-03 |
Briefing in Tourism Ministry & prepare for expedition |
| Day 04 |
Fly to Tumlingtar |
| Day 05 |
Tumlingtar - Kuwapani |
| Day 06 |
Kuwapani - Chichila |
| Day 07 |
Chichila - Num |
| Day 08 |
Num - Seduwa |
| Day 09 |
Seduwa - Tashigaun |
| Day 10 |
Tashigaun - Khongmadanda |
| Day 11 |
Khongmadanda - Mumfuk |
| Day 12 |
Mumfuk - Yangle Kharak |
| Day 13 |
Yangle Khark - Merak |
| Day 14 |
Merak - Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize |
| Day 15 |
Sersung - Makalu BC |
| Day 16-41 |
Climbing Period of Makalu 1 (8463m) |
| Day 42 |
Makalu BC - Mumbuck |
| Day 43 |
Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda) |
| Day 44 |
Khongma La - Seduwa |
| Day 45 |
Seduwa - Chichila |
| Day 46 |
Chichila - Tumlingtar |
| Day 47 |
Tumlingtar - Kathmandu |
| Day 48-49 |
Kathmandu |
| Day 50 |
Final Departure |
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| Equipments Checklists - Climbing Trips |
In addition to the above list of suggested trekking equipment, you should take along with various items of mountaineering tools. For any trip which has crossed by steep, snow-covered ground, or which has included section of glacier travel, it might be necessary for the group roping up as a safety precaution. To facilitate this process of roping up, you will need to maintain a minimum requirement, a climbing harness, a climbing sling and two locking carabineers. Plastic mountaineering boots, a mountaineering ice axe and a pair of crampons with front points are the other items of equipment, which are required for our trekking peak trips. (Please note: Our recommendation that you take no more than 33 pounds of trekking equipment DOES NOT include your plastic boots, ice axe, crampons or harness/carabineers. During the trek, climbing hardware will be carried separately from your personal trek bag in-group bags until needed). |
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| An explanation of the equipment that you will need: |
| Daypacks for Climbing Trips |
3000-4000 cubic inches. For climbing trips, you will be required to carry more warm clothing during the climbs and also your personal climbing gear. For this reason, you will need a slightly bigger daypack than for a trekking-only trip. If you have any questions about gear, please do not hesitate to call our office for advice. |
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| Equipment Rental |
In order to minimize your expense outlay for trekking and climbing equipment you may never use again, we offer a wide range of equipment available for rent for the duration of your trip. All rental equipment can be picked up from your trip leader upon arrival for your trip. |
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